Why visit Asuncion? Let’s be honest: that’s not the question. The real question is how to make the most of the 2 days you’ll probably spend in transit there.
If you’re looking for adventure, breathtaking scenery, or a booming nightlife, Asuncion is probably not your destination. But if you’re passing through between Argentina and Brazil, or if your night bus drops you off there one morning, you might as well know what to do with your time.
After traveling through many cities in South America, Asuncion is one of those places where you quickly find ourselves wondering what’s left to see. Activities are limited, the sights can be counted on one hand, and the afternoons can drag on once you’ve covered the historic center in a single morning. It’s a transit city more than a destination, and it’s perfectly fine to admit that.
Paraguay in general is a country that doesn’t draw many tourists. It has no coastline, no mountains, no major pre-Columbian ruins, in short, it’s more of a place where people live than a place people visit. Asuncion, its capital, reflects this reality. The city has about 500,000 inhabitants (more than 2 million in the greater area), and its historic center is compact. You’ll find colonial buildings, museums, and a waterfront promenade. That’s about it. Tourism is not a priority here, which is an understandable choice given the country’s needs.
That said, there are a few reasons not to skip the city entirely. The food is decent and affordable, there are museums (some are actually quite interesting), and the cost of living is among the lowest on the continent. If you are backpacking on a tight budget, that is at least one major plus. We spent less in two days in Asuncion than we did for a single meal in some restaurants in Buenos Aires.
This guide is designed for those who, like us, find themselves in Asuncion without really planning to. No fake enthusiasm here, and no endless lists of “must-see” attractions. Just a realistic 2-day itinerary featuring the spots actually worth a visit (and the ones you can skip without any regrets). We also share our travel habits to help you make the most of a quick stopover without any expectations.
A quick tip before you start: download the right apps before you arrive. Wi-Fi in accommodation is often slow, and having Maps.me available offline will save you from wandering in circles around the downtown streets. Another practical point: the heat in Asuncion is intense. From November to March, temperatures regularly climb past 35 degrees with high humidity. Make sure to pack plenty of water, sunscreen, and plan your sightseeing for the morning or late afternoon. Between 1 p.m. and 4 p.m., the city slows to a crawl, and you won’t want to be walking under that sun anyway.
Day 1: The historic center and museums (the absolute best of what’s there)
Central Asunción is where you’ll find most of what there is to see. We managed to cover it all in one day, and honestly, we even had some free time in the afternoon. The upside is that everything is completely walkable. The historic district is easy to wander through, and the museums are close to one another. If you are used to cities like Cusco or Montevideo, manage your expectations. We’re not talking about the same level of sights and activities here.
Just be careful not to wander into the low-income neighborhood past the Republic Cultural Center!
Our first day’s itinerary starts in the historic center, around the Plaza de los Héroes, and takes you all the way to the Costanera, stopping by a few museums that are well worth a visit. Expect to spend about 4 to 5 hours for the actual tour, including breaks.
To get around Asuncion, your best options are walking and using local buses. The bus network covers the entire city for next to nothing (about 3,000 guaraníes, or less than 0.40 euros). Uber is also available, but for trips within the city center, there is really no need to catch a ride.
1. Palacio de López 4.7/5
Paraguay’s presidential palace sits right on the banks of the Paraguay River in a beautiful neoclassical building dating back to the late 19th century. This is easily the most photogenic building in town, especially in the late afternoon when the light is softening. While the interior is closed to the public (except for the occasional open-house day), the exterior and the surrounding gardens are well worth a stroll. Built during the presidency of Carlos Antonio López—hence the name—the palace bears the scars of the Triple Alliance War that ravaged the country between 1864 and 1870. The standing guard won’t mind at all if you snap a few photos from the outside.
Access: (Exterior only) 📍Google Maps
2. Catedral Metropolitana 4.6/5
Asunción’s cathedral dates back to the 19th century and is located near the Plaza de los Héroes, right in the heart of the historic center. The interior is quite simple, with modest decorative details. If you’ve already seen the grand cathedrals of Lima, Quito, or Buenos Aires, this one might not blow you away. However, it’s still a helpful landmark in the city center, and the surrounding plaza is a great spot to sit back and watch local life unfold. Street vendors sell chipas, empanadas, and cold drinks here, highly welcome in the local heat! Just off the square, you’ll also find the Panteón Nacional de los Héroes, a monument honoring key figures in Paraguayan history. You can pop inside in just a few minutes; it’s free and makes for an easy, quick addition to your walk around the plaza.
Access: free 📍 Google Maps
3. Museo de las Memorias 4.7/5
This is hands down the most interesting museum in Asunción, and one of the few spots that easily justifies a stop. Housed in a former detention center from the Stroessner dictatorship (1954-1989), it documents the human rights violations of that era. The testimonies and photographs are incredibly moving. The museum is small but packed with information, offering crucial historical context to help you understand modern-day Paraguay. Expect to spend about 45 minutes here.
4. Museo Memoria de la Ciudad 4.5/5
A small, simple museum dedicated to the city’s history. Displays cover everything from the colonial era to modern times, featuring scale models, old photographs, and historical artifacts. It’s decent, but not particularly memorable. Admission is free, so there’s no harm in popping in if you happen to be walking by, but don’t go out of your way for it.
5. Costanera de Asuncion 4.5/5
The promenade running along the Paraguay River. Simply put, it’s a nice place for a stroll. The area is relatively new and clean, featuring green spaces, bike lanes, and a few food stalls. In the late afternoon, locals head here to jog or walk with their families, bringing the waterfront to life. Catching the sunset over the river is a lovely experience, even if it might not be the most spectacular one you’ll witness in South America.
Access: free, open 24/7 📍 Google Maps
6. Central Station Railway Museum 4.4/5
Asunción’s old train station has been converted into a museum. Inside, you’ll find a few vintage steam engines and some old, rusty railway equipment. The place has a certain nostalgic charm, but info panels are minimal and you can easily see everything in 15 to 20 minutes. It’s cheap, on the way to other spots, and makes for a quick, quirky break between other sights.
Access: 1,50 euros 📍 Google Maps
At the end of the day, if you have some time left, it’s the perfect moment to try tereré, the cold version of mate that Paraguayans drink all day long. You’ll see thermoses and cups everywhere on the streets, it’s a massive part of daily life here. If you’re planning to head next to Puerto Iguazu, now is a good time to book your night bus. Paraguayan bus companies are usually on time, and the night buses are equipped with comfortable, reclining semi-cama seats.
Day 2: Art, local neighborhoods, and ticking off the rest of your list
The second day is a little easier to pace. You’ve already ticked off the heavy hitters, and while there are still a few great spots left to see, there’s absolutely no need to set an early alarm. Take your time in the morning, grab a hearty breakfast (La Vienesa Centro is a fantastic choice for this), and head out in the late morning. Today’s plan takes you slightly outside the center to the Museo del Barro, before heading to the neighborhoods of Loma San Jerónimo and Paseo Carmelitas.
7. Museo del Barro 4.7/5
Asuncion’s most acclaimed art museum, located just outside the center in the Sajonia neighborhood. It showcases Paraguayan folk art, indigenous art, and local contemporary art across three distinct collections. It’s the most comprehensive museum in the city and gives you the best window into Paraguayan culture. The section dedicated to Guaraní craftsmanship is fascinating, with textiles, ceramics, and ritual objects showcasing age-old skills. The contemporary art section can be hit-or-miss, but the pieces are well worth a look. Plan to spend about an hour to an hour and a half here. To get there from the center, a local bus or a quick Uber (under 2 euros) will do the trick, taking about 20 minutes depending on traffic.
Access: Free entry on Fridays and Saturdays 📍 Google Maps
8. Loma San Jerónimo 4.4/5
A colorful hilltop neighborhood often dubbed the “artistic quarter” of Asuncion. In reality, it’s a handful of streets lined with painted houses and vibrant street art. It’s incredibly photogenic and makes for a lovely 30 to 45-minute stroll. If you’re a fan of street art, you’ll find some really cool murals here.
Access: Free 📍 Google Maps
9. Paseo Carmelitas 4.3/5
Asuncion’s trendy hotspot, packed with cafes, restaurants, and boutique shops. It’s the liveliest part of the city, especially once the sun goes down. During the day, it’s quite relaxed—perfect for sitting on a patio, sipping a tereré (the famous iced mate drink you’ll see everywhere in Paraguay), and people-watching. This neighborhood is also where you’ll find the best accommodation options for travelers. If you’re looking for a base to drop your bags, this is the area to target.
Access: Free, open neighborhood 📍 Google Maps
And there you have it. We’ve covered it all. If you find yourself with some free time on the afternoon of day two (which you probably will), here are a few options: find a cafe to get some work done if you’re in Workaway or volunteering mode, read a book by the Costanera, or simply plan the next leg of your trip. No point in making up activities that aren’t there.
If you’re the type to travel with a strict travel bucket list, Asuncion probably won’t check many boxes. And that’s perfectly fine. Not every city is meant to capture your heart. Sometimes, a place is just a spot on the map between two destinations that really do.
A quick note on safety, since we get asked this a lot: Asuncion is generally a safe city for travelers, as long as you take the usual precautions. Avoid walking around the center alone after dark (the streets empty out quickly), keep your valuables back at your accommodation, and use Uber rather than hailing a cab on the street at night. During the day, we never felt unsafe, even in the less touristy neighborhoods. Just use your common sense and you’ll be fine.
Where to eat in Asuncion: the real highlight of the trip
If there is one area where Asuncion truly shines, it’s the food. The prices are low, the portions are generous, and Paraguayan cuisine, while simple, is honest and hearty. Chipa (a cassava-based cheese bread), sopa paraguaya (a savory corn and cheese “cake,” despite its name), and the local empanadas are always safe bets. Paraguayan food relies heavily on corn, cassava, and beef. It might not be the most varied cuisine on the continent, but it’s comforting and highly satisfying. For vegetarians, options are a bit more limited, but chipa and sopa paraguaya are great go-to choices. Here are the spots we tested that are definitely worth a visit.
1. Doña Chipa 4.6/5
The go-to spot to try chipa in all its forms. This small eatery offers traditional chipas, stuffed chipas, and other Paraguayan specialties made with cassava. Everything is fresh, homemade, and incredibly cheap. Expect to pay between 5,000 and 15,000 guaranies per piece (less than 2 euros). It is a simple, no-nonsense spot that we would recommend in a heartbeat.
Price range: budget (less than 5 euros for a meal) 📍 Google Maps
2. Lido Bar 4.4/5
An Asunción institution, open since the 1950s. Lido Bar is a downtown café-restaurant packed mostly with locals. The menu features classic Paraguayan dishes, sandwiches, and empanadas. It has that great local neighborhood bar feel that hasn’t changed in decades, with straightforward, no-frills service. Daily specials run around 25,000 to 40,000 guaranies (3 to 5 euros). It’s tasty, filling, and honest food.
Price range: budget (5-10 euros for a meal) 📍 Google Maps
3. Bolsi 4.5/5
A family-run restaurant in the center serving traditional Paraguayan cuisine. Their sopa paraguaya is wonderfully prepared, and the grilled meats are very generous. The setting is simple, with wooden tables and unpretentious decor. This is the kind of local joint where families from Asunción gather for Sunday lunch. Main courses cost between 30,000 and 60,000 guaranies (4 to 8 euros). Excellent value for money in the city.
Price range: moderate budget (8-15 euros for a meal) 📍 Google Maps
4. Ña Eustaquia 4.5/5
A restaurant that proudly highlights traditional Guaraní cuisine. Dishes are prepared with local ingredients following time-honored Paraguayan recipes. You will find bori bori (corn dumpling soup), mbeju (cassava starch flatbread), and grilled meats here. The setting is nice without being pretentious, and the prices remain very reasonable: between 35,000 and 70,000 guaranies (5 to 9 euros) for a main dish. This is our top recommendation if you want to sample authentic Paraguayan food in a slightly more polished setting.
Price range: moderate budget (10-18 euros for a meal) 📍 Google Maps
5. La Vienesa Centro 4.3/5
A downtown bakery and pastry shop, perfect for breakfast or a quick snack. The pastries are decent, the coffee gets the job done, and the prices are low. It might not be the best bakery you will find in South America, but it does the trick when you are looking for a quick bite to start your day. Expect to pay around 10,000 to 20,000 guaranies (1.5 to 3 euros) for a coffee and pastry.
Price range: budget (less than 5 euros) 📍 Google Maps
Getting around and budgeting: at least it won’t break the bank
Paraguay is one of the most budget-friendly countries in South America, and Asuncion is no exception. This might just be the city’s biggest selling point for backpackers: your money goes a very long way here.
Estimated daily budget for a backpacker:
Dorm bed: 30 000 to 60 000 guaranies (4 to 8 euros a night). Options are limited but do the job. Look out for family-run guesthouses rather than chain hostels; they’re usually better looked after and your money goes straight into the local economy.
Meals: 15 000 to 50 000 guaranies (2 to 7 euros). Stick to local eateries and markets, and you’ll easily get by on less than 15 euros a day for three meals.
Transport: 3 000 guaranies for a bus ride (0,40 euro). An Uber around town rarely goes over 15 000 guaranies (2 euros).
Activities: nearly all free. Museums are free or charge just a symbolic fee. That’s actually the norm for most sights in Asuncion.
Estimated total: between 15 and 30 euros a day, all-inclusive. Honestly, you’ll find it hard to spend more even if you try.
Traveling responsibly in Asuncion
Paraguay isn’t on the mass tourism radar, meaning the environmental footprint of travel here is still quite low. Even so, it’s always worth thinking about our footprint, so here are a few tips for traveling responsibly in Asuncion.
Accommodation: Opt for guesthouses or homestays rather than big hotel chains. They’re often cheaper, packed with authentic charm, and your money goes straight into the pockets of local families. Platforms like Booking and HostelWorld list several great family-run spots in Asuncion.
Food: Eat like a local. The restaurants listed in this guide are all genuine Paraguayan spots. Skip the international fast-food chains (yep, you’ll find them in Asuncion) and head straight for the food stalls at covered markets like Mercado Municipal N4.
Getting around: The center is easy to explore on foot, and local buses have you covered for the rest. Skip the tourist taxis and hop on public transit instead—it is still the most eco-friendly way to get around town. If you are heading onward to Brazil or Argentina, the overnight bus is your best bet for keeping both your carbon footprint and your expenses low.
Waste management: Paraguay still struggles with waste management in certain urban areas. Be sure to carry your trash with you if you can’t find a bin, and always keep a reusable water bottle handy (tap water isn’t safe to drink here, but you can buy large water jugs to refill your bottle rather than buying small plastic bottles).
Respecting local communities: Paraguay is home to indigenous Guarani communities. If you are visiting the rural areas around Asuncion or the Museo del Barro, take some time to learn about Guarani history and culture. Please avoid any tours or attractions that treat indigenous communities as mere tourist spectacles.
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Honest take
suncion is the kind of city that nobody recommends, few travelers include on their itinerary, and almost never gets a mention in travel blogs. And there is a good reason for that: things to do are limited, sights are few and far between, and two days are more than enough to see the whole place.
But does that make it a bad city? Not at all. It is simply a place that is not geared for tourism, and has no pretensions of being so. Locals just live their lives there: they work, eat well, and sip tereré in the 35-degree heat. You won’t find a fancy renovated tourist district, a free walking tour on every street corner, or cocktail bars with catchy English names. It is a South American capital living at its own pace, and that pace does not include a packed sightseeing schedule.
If you happen to find yourself passing through Asuncion, this guide should help you fill your two days there without getting too bored. The Museo de las Memorias is well worth a visit, the food is decent and cheap, and the Costanera makes for a lovely spot to stroll at the end of the day. It is just enough for two days. No more.
Our advice: do not force yourself to love a place that does not speak to you. Sometimes, the best thing you can say about a stopover is that it was decent. And Asuncion is decent. If your next stop is les chutes d’Iguazu or the Salkantay Trek in Peru, you will appreciate the contrast all the more.
Have a good stopover.
If this post helped you plan your stopover, check out all our guides to Latine America. And if you are prepping for a big trip, our guide on travel dos and don’ts and our gears checklist might come in handy. We also share our thoughts on andean spirituality and peru vs chile.
