Santos was our first real stop after the crossing.
We spent three days in São Vicente, in a small 10th-floor apartment perched on Illa Porchat. Below us was the sea, and all around, the rain.
We weren’t expecting such changeable weather, but in the end, it created a special atmosphere: quiet, a little melancholy, but gentle.
Illa Porchat, our sanctuary overlooking the bay
From our large window, the view of Praia de Paranapuã was incredible, even under the gray skies. We could watch the cargo ships slowly pass by, the rainforest darken under the rain, and occasionally, a beam of sunlight break through the clouds.
The neighborhood is quiet, with just a few restaurants and some steep alleys leading to the top of the island. In the morning, the mist rises from the sea, blanketing the surrounding hills and forests.
It is a perfect place to unwind and slow down, but not for adventure: there is nothing particularly thrilling to do right on the spot.
Brasilia
Santos
Strolling between the rain and wet sand
Despite the weather, we really wanted to explore the surrounding area a bit.
For our first day, we didn’t venture too far: the day before, we had spotted a supermarket and a few snack bars, but nothing really lively. Santos and São Vicente aren’t the kind of cities where there’s a party on every corner.
So, we took the São Vicente cable car (€11.50 per person) down to Itararé Beach. The ride gives you a lovely view of the hill separating São Vicente from Santos. If you’re a bit of a thrill-seeker, this is also where they do paragliding jumps.
As for us, we were happy just to head up, enjoy the view, and dodge the raindrops.
From up there, we really got a feel for the city: long beaches lined with high-rises, not much of a cultural scene, but a classic Brazilian backdrop. It was right there that it hit us: we were starting a long journey, with all its ups and downs, surprises, and quiet moments.
On the way back, we stopped at Praia dos Milionários. When the sun is out, it’s known for being quite lively, but under the rain, it was peaceful and completely deserted.
A little further along, Praia de Gonzaguinha, lined with palm trees and cozy little cafes, offered a beautiful view of Illa Porchat hill—a panorama that was definitely worth the walk.
A day spent (almost) walking around Santos
The next day, the weather was looking up.
We decided to head out on foot towards the Ponte Pênsil, a historic suspension bridge that connects São Vicente to Praia Grande.
An hour later, we found ourselves wandering through construction zones and rather quiet streets. Since it didn’t feel like the safest spot, we decided to play it safe and ordered a rideshare to take us straight to the historic center of Santos.
The city center has kept all of its old-world charm, with its historic buildings and its famous coffee museum housed in a former coffee exchange.
This is honestly the most interesting visit to do in Santos: you get to discover how the city became the main coffee port back in the 19th century. Best of all, you can wrap up the tour with a tasting of freshly ground coffee!
After that, we wandered around the downtown streets for a bit, but didn’t find much else to do.
We ended up buying frozen pizzas since we couldn’t find any nice restaurants open, and headed back to dry off.
Santos in the rain
On our last day, it rained non-stop. We decided to just take it easy in our apartment, watching the sea and getting ready for our departure to São Paulo.
Santos is a peaceful town, but during the off-season, it feels a bit deserted. Once famous for its nightlife, it is now somewhat quieter due to safety concerns. Some areas aren’t as safe as they used to be, so it’s best to stick to the tourist spots and the beaches.
These three days might not have been the absolute highlight of our trip, but they were a wonderful chance to recharge. Just to pause and catch our breath between two major legs of our journey through Brazil.
Where to stay
- Illa Porchat, quiet with great views of the bay, making it a perfect base for exploring São Vicente and Santos.
Things to see in Santos
- Museu do Café, a must-visit.
- Gonzaga Beach, lovely for a stroll.
- Orchidário Municipal, a charming little tropical park and animal sanctuary.
Beaches to explore
Where to eat
- Café Carioca, local cuisine, a great stop after visiting the museum.
- Bar Heinz, Brazilian atmosphere, hearty dishes.
- Pizzaria Mais Sabor, simple and generous local pizzas.
- Bar do Toninho – right on Gonzaguinha beach, perfect for a cold beer facing the ocean.
Good to know
- Easy access to the center of Praia Grande via the Ponte Pênsil.
- It’s best to avoid lingering in isolated areas after dark.
- Rideshare apps work well and are highly recommended for getting around.
Useful resources
Santos in pictures
Summaries
