We spent 3 days in Asuncion, which is short for a capital city, but long enough to realize that this one is unlike any other in South America. We arrived after a seven-hour bus ride from Ciudad del Este, a city surprisingly much livelier than the capital. Asuncion, on the other hand, moves at its own gentle pace, nestled between residential neighborhoods, a historic center, and quiet pockets of life.
El Nomada Hostel, our perfect base camp in Asuncion
When you arrive, make yourself at home at El Nomada Hostel. It is a clean, well-run hostel with a small pool, a functional kitchen, and several restaurants just a fifteen-minute walk away.
In the evening, we met Alexandra, a digital nomad from Brazil who is a graphic designer and dancer. She shared her favorite spots around town with us. The evening flew by, and we finally turned in, climbing up to the third tier of our bunk beds in the dorm.
First discoveries, from quiet cafes to the railway museum
The next day, we tried out the Contacto Café Social Club. The entrance is so discreet that you might walk right past it without even noticing.
Hot chocolate, cookies, soft music, and a local vibe. It’s the perfect little break before diving into your day’s exploration.
Next, we walked over to the Museo de la Estacion Central del Ferrocarril. Admission is only about two euros, and the museum traces the history of South American railways. The highlight has to be stepping inside an original coach from the 1800s. It really feels like taking a quick step back in time.
Riding on our momentum, we head towards the cathedral. But in less than ten minutes, the streets change, the cobblestones disappear, and the houses become more modest. We quickly realize we’ve wandered into a much less safe area. We turn back, and this little detour reminds us of an episode of the travel show “J’irai dormir chez vous” filmed in this very neighborhood (around 6 min 10)—this area is indeed a “red zone” for tourists, and we’re really not supposed to go there.
We then make our way to the Bahía de Asunción, a man-made beach around a large lake. Off-season, the beach is completely empty and only one bar is open. The vibe is peaceful, almost suspended in time.
We head back by ride-share, which is really the easiest way to get around once night falls or if you’re still working on the local language.
In the evening, we catch up with Alexandra and Naomie, a French traveler who just arrived at the hostel. They teach us a great hack for upgrading instant noodles using fresh veggies. Trust us, this is a tip that will come in handy time and time again.
The Museo del Barro and the contrasting reality of Asuncion
The next day, we grab lunch together at a really nice restaurant, then head over to the Museo del Barro.
On the way, we notice that the old town has been largely left to go to seed. But just a few kilometers away, the new town is absolutely booming, bustling with construction, modern buildings, and heavily secured residential neighborhoods.
The museum itself brings together a very diverse collection, ranging from indigenous art to contemporary creations. It’s an interesting mix, but without a clear common thread, making the visit feel a bit disjointed.
Heading out, we decide to walk to the shopping center through what feels like the Beverly Hills of Asuncion. Security booths on every corner, massive villas, and a very leafy, residential vibe. We play a game of picking out which house we’d love to live in if we moved here.
A shopping center that really stands out from the crowd
The Paseo La Galería completely surprises us. Four floors of shops, an entrance covered in greenery, and a lively crowd. A lot of high-tech products don’t have price tags, which leaves us a bit puzzled.
Ciudad del Este is famous for cheap electronics shopping, but here, it’s hard to compare without any price tags. And keep an eye out for counterfeits, which are very common in the region.
After a cold drink, we head back to our hostel. In the evening, we have dinner at the Negroni Rooftop, the only rooftop in town. Gorgeous views, great cocktails, and though the food wasn’t quite as impressive, the atmosphere is quiet and just perfect for winding down.
An unexpected final day
We were supposed to catch a bus to Montevideo, but there was no availability until the next day.
We took the opportunity to try out the Mandioca Hostel in a private room, just to get a little privacy back.
It was a total disaster. The state of the hostel and the room almost made us want to head back to our nine-bed dorm. But it was only for one night, so we just hung in there.
The next day, we were off to Uruguay. A journey of over 24 hours lay ahead of us.
Where to stay
- El Nomada Hostel: clean, pleasant, great vibe, and a handy location.
- Mandioca Hostel: give this one a miss if you are looking for comfort.
Things to see
- Museo del Barro
- Museo del Ferrocarril
- Cathédrale d’Asuncion
- Bahía de Asunción
- Paseo La Galería
- Asuncion’s modern district, to see the contrast with the old town.
Where to eat and drink
- Contacto Café Social Club: a cosy and discreet little coffee spot.
- Negroni Rooftop: for stunning views overlooking the city.
- There are plenty of dining options within easy walking distance around El Nomada Hostel.
Travel tips
- Use ride-sharing apps for longer distances or when getting around at night.
- Asuncion’s old town is very quiet and can sometimes feel a bit sketchy; it’s best to stick to the main streets.
- Paraguay is incredibly budget-friendly, but keep an eye out for counterfeits, especially when buying electronics.
For longer journeys (Argentina, Uruguay, Brazil), be sure to book your bus tickets in advance.
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Summaries
